With the rapid development of the world economy and the gradual improvement of people's living standards, higher and higher requirements are put forward for the quality and performance of cosmetics. Beauty cosmetics based on Chinese herbal medicine are more and more favored by consumers.

Chinese traditional medicine has a very long history of cosmetic surgery. Since the pre Qin period, China has started to use natural Chinese herbal medicine to beautify the skin; In the period of King Zhou of Yin Dynasty, people made rouge cosmetics from the red and blue flowers and leaves grown in Yandi; During the Qin, Han and Three Kingdoms periods, the Huang Di Nei Jing and the secret biography of Hua Tuo's miraculous doctor recorded many medicines with cosmetic effects; After the Tang Dynasty, the varieties of cosmetics became more and more abundant. Sun Simiao said in his "Thousand Golden Wings" that "facial fat, hand cream, clothes, bath beans, and officials are all important." it can be seen that beauty drugs have been widely used; During the song, Ming and Qing Dynasties, the research content and scope of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetology were greatly expanded. Important cosmetology was not limited to external use, but more important to use it for internal recuperation. After that, the production of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics in China was in a small workshop for a long time. It was not until 1905 that Guangsheng bank in Hong Kong built the first machine-made cosmetics factory in China that it began to produce cosmetics such as toilet water, snow cream and perfume powder. After World War II, with the proliferation of chemical synthetic products, the environment was seriously polluted and human health was harmed. Chemical synthetic cosmetics also faced this problem. The synthetic raw materials, synthetic flavors and synthetic pigments contained in them often induced various skin diseases, which set off a worldwide upsurge in the development of natural cosmetics.

China is a vast country with abundant resources of plants. Compared with chemical synthetic products, Chinese herbal medicine has much less side effects on human body, so its safety is higher. The natural active ingredients contained therein are widely used in modern cosmetics and play various roles, such as whitening and freckle removal, anti-aging and anti wrinkle, anti acne, hair growth, sunscreen, moisturizing, anti dandruff and anti itching, weight loss and body beauty, etc. Nowadays, China has a rich variety of cosmetics, and traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics and skin care products also have high popularity and brand effect. Researchers have done a lot of research on the active components, their separation and extraction, and their pharmacological mechanisms in Chinese herbal medicine.

This article starts from the function of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics, classifies it, and summarizes its efficacy and application in cosmetics, so as to lay a foundation for the further development and application of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics.

Oriental women always advocate fair skin. Although Europeans and Americans do not pursue whitening, they love to remove all kinds of spots. The factors that determine skin color are melanin, melanin like pigments, lutein and other pigments, as well as epidermal thickness, subcutaneous blood vessels and light scattering. Melanin is the key factor to determine the skin color. When melanin increases, the skin changes from light brown to black.Formation mechanism of melanin: tyrosine in the body is oxidized by tyrosinase to become dopa, then oxidized by tyrosine oxidase to DOPA quinone, then oxidized to 5,6-dihydroxynitrogen, and finally polymerized into melanin.

At present, natural whitening agents from traditional Chinese medicine mainly achieve the effect of whitening and freckle removal by promoting blood circulation, improving skin color, reducing melanin content, directly whitening, antioxidation, protecting skin color and inhibiting the proliferation of melanocytes.Chinese herbal medicines commonly used in whitening and freckle removing cosmetics mainly include the following:

(1)Angelica dahurica, Atractylodes macrocephala, Baiji and baifuziThe active ingredient in the mask has the function of activating blood circulation, and can be used as the additive of the whitening mask;

(2)Cordyceps sinensisIt can effectively improve the skin wrinkles of human face;

(3)aloeContains a large amount ofAloin, vitamin B2, B6, B12 and various amino acids, its cosmetic effect is good;

(4)TeaIt containstea polyphenolsIt can inhibit tyrosinase activity;

(5)Scutellaria baicalensis GeorgiMediumBaicalinIt can also inhibit tyrosinase activity;

(6)SeabuckthornThe active ingredient of the herb has the effect of treating chloasma;

(7)pomegranateContained inPomegranate polyphenols and anthocyaninsIt is a good tyrosinase inhibitor and can be used in whitening skin care cream;

(8)Ganoderma lucidumextractiveIt can be made into Ganoderma lucidum cream, which has the effect of whitening and anti wrinkle;

(9)Wax gourd seedextractiveIt can inhibit the activity of melanocytes and tyrosinase, and reduce the production of melanin;

(10)pearlThe nutrients can promote the metabolism of skin cells, inhibit the growth of lipofuscin, enhance the vitality and elasticity of skin cells, and keep the skin tender and white.

Skin aging is a complex process of progressive degeneration, which is mainly divided into natural aging and photoaging. Natural aging is an endogenous programmed process, which is determined by internal factors and mainly influenced by genetic factors. It occurs with age and is irresistible. It is characterized by fine wrinkles, loose, dry and rough skin. Photoaging is the change of structure and function of skin caused by long-term repeated exposure to solar ultraviolet rays. It is the result of natural aging and ultraviolet radiation. It is characterized by loss of skin elasticity, thick and deep wrinkles, leather like appearance, and pigmentation.

At present, great progress has been made in the research on the mechanism of skin aging, among which the free radical theory, gene regulation theory and matrix metalloproteinase theory of skin aging are more representative.

(1)Free radical theoryAccording to the main point of view, the main cause of skin aging is the increase of free radicals produced in the metabolic process. Excessive free radicals will accumulate in the body, attack cell membrane and mitochondrial membrane, react with unsaturated fatty acids in the membrane, and form lipid peroxide, which will decompose into aldehydes, such as malondialdehyde, which will attack phospholipids and proteins, forming lipofuscin to accumulate in cells, which is a sign of cell aging.

(2)Gene regulation theoryIt is believed that the average life span and maximum life span of an organism are constant and are determined by a series of genes that cause and delay aging. With the increase of age, the loss of modifying genes, the reduction of DNA methylation, the shortening of telomeres, the decline of DNA self repair ability, the abnormal regulation of proto oncogenes and tumor suppressor genes lead to chromosome mutations and the excessive differentiation of normal cells, resulting in aging.

(3)Aging theory of matrix metalloproteinasesIt is believed that matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) are a family of Endopeptidases whose biological activities depend on zinc ions and have the ability to degrade extracellular matrix. Its main function is to degrade collagen and elastin in dermis. The increase of MMP secretion can increase the degradation of collagen in cells, resulting in the loss of collagen in the skin, skin relaxation, decreased elasticity, increased and deepened fine lines, and the skin shows signs of aging. Exogenous environmental factors (ultraviolet radiation, smoking, wind blowing, sun exposure and exposure to harmful chemicals) can also cause changes in skin and dermal components. Ultraviolet radiation is the main factor leading to skin aging.

At present, the functions of Chinese herbal medicine in anti-aging cosmetics mainly include the following aspects:

(1) Enhance the proliferation and metabolism of cells, promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin;

(2) Scavenging free radicals and antioxidation;

(3) Moisturizing and repairing skin barrier;

(4) Absorbs or shields ultraviolet light.

The commonly used Chinese herbal medicines mainly include the following:

(1)ginsengContained inGinsenosideIt has significant cell growth activity and can be used as epidermal growth factor. At the same time, it is antioxidant by activating the activity of oxidoreductase in human body, which can prevent skin aging;

(2)Pueraria lobataExtract ofpuerarin It can delay skin aging and reduce fine lines;

(3)Grape seedextractiveContainsProcyanidins, it is a new type of high-efficiency antioxidant. Its antioxidant activity is 50 times that of vitamin E and 20 times that of vitamin C. It can effectively remove excess free radicals in the human body, and has the effect of delaying aging and enhancing immunity;

(4)TeaExtract oftea polyphenolsIt can inhibit the peroxidation of skin lipids, remove free radicals, enter human cells, remove or reduce secondary pigmentation, chloasma, age spots, wrinkles, etc., so it can slow down skin aging;

(5)ginkgo bilobaExtractMediumFlavonoidsIt also has the function of anti-aging and promoting human microcirculation;

(6)Salvia miltiorrhizaextractiveIt can promote the proliferation of collagen, enhance the metabolism of skin dermis, and has antioxidant properties. It can be used in skin activating and anti wrinkle cosmetics.

Acne, commonly known as acne, acne, alcohol acne, etc., is the most common skin disease on the face of teenagers. It is a chronic inflammation of hair follicles and sebaceous glands. Generally, most of them recover naturally after the age of 25 to 30. It is due to the blockage of sebaceous gland tubes and pores caused by various reasons, which makes the sebaceous outflow blocked.There are three reasons for pore blockage:

(1) The skin itself is oily. This kind of person secretes oil vigorously and is easy to block pores;

(2) Androgen secretion increases in adolescent males, which leads to increased sebum secretion. Hair follicles and sebaceous ducts are hyperkeratotic. Exfoliated cells from the stratum corneum accumulate in the infundibulum of hair follicles. Sebum exposed outside the mouth of hair follicles forms blackhead acne through the oxidation of air.

(3) There are some parasitic bacteria in human skin. Generally, they do not cause disease. When skin sebum increases, these bacteria will release lipases and decompose sebum into fatty acids. These acidic products will cause hair follicle inflammation and acne.

At present, the main mechanism of anti acne traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics is to dissolve sebum, accelerate sebum excretion, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti androgen activities.The commonly used traditional Chinese medicines are as follows:

(1)Wormwood, Artemisia annuaThe extract has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities and can be used for anti acne treatment;

(2)ShikoninContained inShikoninIt can promote the proliferation of granulation tissue, obviously accelerate the healing of wound, and has a good effect on acne;

(3)Baicalin of baicalin extractIt has anti-inflammatory, anti allergic and other effects, and has a wide antibacterial spectrum. The cosmetics made of its extract have a good effect on treating inflammatory skin diseases. The benzoic acid contained in it can prevent keratinocytes from adhering to each other, so that closed acne becomes open acne, and has a better effect on acne with mixed infection;

(4)Salvia miltiorrhizaMediumTanshinoneIt has anti androgen activity, is highly sensitive to acne bacilli, anti-inflammatory and anti-inflammatory, and is suitable for all kinds of acne;

(5)Atractylodes chinensis It has obvious inhibitory effect on Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. When used in acne lotion, it is especially effective in the treatment of infectious acne;

(6)Sanguisorba officinalis extractIt has a strong antibacterial effect, especially on Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. It has the effect of antibacterial and acne elimination.

Healthy skin has a lot to do with its own moisturizing function. The function of the skin moisturizing system is to maintain a certain moisture content of the skin. Under normal circumstances, when the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum is 10% ~ 20%, the skin is tight and elastic, which is the most ideal state; When the moisture content is below 10%, the skin is dry and rough; No matter how little water is, cracks will occur. Therefore, when the skin's own moisturizing system can not maintain the normal moisture of the skin, it is necessary to use moisturizing cosmetics to make the skin in an ideal state.It is generally believed that there are three main mechanisms for moisturizing cosmetics:

(1) Cosmetics form a closed oil film protective layer on the skin surface, so as to reduce the evaporation of water and thus achieve the purpose of moisturizing;

(2) The moisturizer added in cosmetics can absorb the moisture in the air to moisturize the skin;

(3) Supplement lipid components, provide nutrition for skin keratinocytes and repair their barrier function.

At present, the Chinese herbal ingredients added to moisturizing cosmetics mainly include the following:

(1)Bletilla striataRich inBletilla colloid, which is mainly composed ofBletilla striata polysaccharide, it can effectively prevent skin chilblain and chapped, promote blood circulation and improve skin nutritional status. Research shows that the anti freezing cream containing Bletilla gum can significantly improve skin chapped and chilblain;

(2)ZhuruThe outer epidermis of bamboo, which is extracted from traditional Chinese medicine commonly used in clinicBamboo essence ezr2005, with remarkable moisturizing performance, the effect is slightly inferior to that of hyaluronic acid;

(3)Aloe extractMediumaloe polysaccharides Good moisturizing effect;

(4) In addition,oat extract Medium Beta glucan、Ophiopogon japonicus polysaccharideandLycium barbarum polysaccharidesThey can be directly added to the moisturizing cream formula as a moisturizer to increase its moisturizing effect.

The so-called ultraviolet ray refers to the ray with the wavelength of 200 ~ 400 nm, which is the shortest wavelength in the sunlight. Ultraviolet light can be divided into three sections:

(1) 200 ~ 280 nm is the UVC segment, also known as the sterilization segment, which can only reach the cuticle of the skin, most of which are blocked by the atmosphere and will not harm the human skin;

(2) 290 ~ 320 nm is the UVB segment, and its projection ability can reach the epidermis, also known as the sunburn segment, which can cause erythema, and is the main wave band for sunscreen;

(3) 320 ~ 400 nm is UVA segment, also known as tanning segment. Its projection ability can reach the dermis, but it will not be sunburned. Its effect on human skin is relatively slow and cumulative, which will lead to skin aging, DNA damage and even skin cancer.

Sunscreen cosmetics can effectively protect the human body from the harm of ultraviolet rays. Its market prospect is broad, and people pay extensive attention to it, especially the natural sunscreen ingredients from Chinese herbal medicine. Its main action mechanism in cosmetics is to absorb and shield ultraviolet rays. At present, there are mainly the following kinds of Chinese herbal medicines used in sunscreen cosmetics in China:

(1)Sophora japonicaMediumrutinIt has the properties of dilating capillaries, anti lipid peroxidation and strong UV absorption, and can be used as an excellent natural sunscreen whitening agent;

(2)aloeContained inAloinIt can strongly absorb ultraviolet rays, moisturize and regulate the skin. If it is shared with silicone oil, the sun protection effect is better;

(3)Scutellaria baicalensis GeorgiContains a wide range of bioactive ingredientsBaicalinandBaicaleinBaicalin can absorb ultraviolet rays, inhibit melanin, resist bacteria, diminish inflammation, resist allergy and oxidation. It is a good scavenger for skin. It can be used in sunscreen milk with a content of 0.8g/ml and a sun protection index of spf35;

(4)honeysuckleContained inchlorogenic acidandFlavonoidscomponentBoth have the function of absorbing ultraviolet rays, and can be prepared into sunscreen lotion and sunscreen water;

(5)angelicaContained inFlavonoids, which can absorb ultraviolet rays, and its extract can be made into sunscreen;

(6)licoriceContained inLicorice Flavonoid andTriterpenoidsIt has a strong absorption of ultraviolet light and is the most widely used plant sunscreen. Compared with synthetic sunscreen, its extract as a sunscreen does not need to add antioxidant, does not stimulate the skin, and has a strong absorption capacity;

(7)Tangerine peelIt is the peel of orange, a Rutaceae plant, containing volatile oilOrange peel and other ketone compounds, its extract has certain anti ultraviolet radiation effect.

At present, the research on Chinese herbal cosmetics is a hot spot both at home and abroad. China has a vast territory and abundant plant resources. At the same time, China's unique basic theory of traditional Chinese medicine and the beauty formula and literature of traditional Chinese medicine left by our ancestors, as well as experts in traditional Chinese medicine, are the advantages of the development of Chinese herbal cosmetics. At present, the urgent problems to be solved are that the extraction process of Chinese herbal additives needs to be optimized, the standards and specifications of the Chinese herbal cosmetics industry are not strict, and the product quality is unstable; It is believed that with the gradual solution of these problems, China's traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics market will have a bright future.