Research progress of plant flavonoids in the application of cosmetic efficacy
Liuting1Liu Fang1Chen Liang1Yujuan2Gongshengzhao1,3
1. Guangzhou Huanya cosmetics technology Co., Ltd. 2 Guangdong Huanya beauty and cosmetics Museum 3 Fine chemical research and development center of Guangdong Light Industry Polytechnic
Flavonoids widely exist in plants and secondary metabolites of plant fungi, and their structures are complex and various. In the natural environment, most flavonoids combine with sugars to form glycosides, and a few exist in the form of aglycones. Flavonoids are mainly c6-C3-C6As the basic architecture, the parent core structure is usually connected with color aid groups, such as methoxy, hydroxyl, isopentenyloxy, etc., so flavonoids usually appear yellow[1,2]According to the different structures, flavonoids are mainly divided into dihydroflavonoids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, dihydroflavonols, flavanols, chalcones. According to the reported literature, more than 5000 flavonoids have been extracted and isolated, and the extraction methods and extraction processes are becoming more and more diversified. At present, flavonoids have been found to have good whitening, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-aging, anti sensitive, anti-inflammatory and other effects[3]With the improvement of the national economy, people's awareness of skin care is becoming stronger and stronger. It promotes the rapid development of cosmetics. Cosmetics are products that make skin care, cleaning, beauty and other effects by applying and other methods. . Therefore, the research on developing low toxicity, non-toxic and effective cosmetic raw materials will become a hot spot. This paper reviews the application research and prospects of plant flavonoids in functional cosmetics reported in recent years.
Efficacy of plant flavonoids in cosmetics
2.1 whitening effect
The skin color and hair color of human body are mainly determined by the distribution and quantity of melanin. The current research results show that melanin plays a role in protecting the human epidermis from UV radiation damage, but abnormal melanin synthesis will lead to freckles, melasma, melanoma and other skin diseases[4]Studies have shown that tyrosinase and DOPA isomerase required for melanin synthesis are regulated by MITF gene. Studies through the cAMP signaling pathway have shown that a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (a-MSH) stimulates melanocytic pigment production by upregulating MITF gene expression. The production of a-MSH stimulating hormone is triggered by a variety of stimuli, such as UV irradiation, inflammatory cytokines and hormone content[5,6]At present, the methods widely used to screen whitening agents in vitro are mainly tyrosinase synthesis inhibition test in vitro and melanin synthesis inhibition test of B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells stimulated by a-MSH. Kojic acid and p-diphenol, as common tyrosine inhibitors, have significant whitening effects in cosmetics, but there are side effects. However, Plant Flavonoid extracts have been intensively studied for their various significant biological activities. . Studies have shown that methoxylation, hydroxylation and glycosylation on the B-ring of flavonoids may weaken the inhibition of tyrosinase, while c2=c3 in flavonoids may enhance the inhibition of tyrosinase[7]。
Fanmeihui[8]Three flavonoids from plant extracts, myricetin, dihydromyricetin and quercetin, showed significant inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and their half inhibitory concentration IC50(8.45 0.25) 10, respectively-5、(3.660.14)10-5And (3.08 0.74) 10-5mol·L-1Both myricetin and dihydromyricetin showed mixed inhibition, while quercetin showed competitive tyrosinase inhibition. The fluorescence spectrum results and molecular simulation results of these three flavonoids showed that they could all be embedded in the hydrophobic active cavity of tyrosinase, and hydrophobic and hydrogen bonding interactions could drive the binding of flavonoids with tyrosinase to induce the conformation change of the enzyme, thus affecting the entry of tyrosine substrates into the enzyme active center, thereby inhibiting the catalytic activity of tyrosinase. Mar í a D. Santi et al[9]Two new flavonoid compounds 1 (pazentin a) and 2 (pazentin b) and two known prenylpinocembrin flavonoid compounds 3 and 4 extracted from coptis root showed the inhibitory concentration IC of melanin synthesis of these four flavonoid compounds in B16 mouse melanoma cell melanogenesis test50; 4 (1.0 ± 0.4 mm) > 2 (5.0 ± 1.0 mm) =3 (5.0 ± 1.8 mm), while kojic acid inhibition rate IC50. The flavone extracted by liutianjing from Kunlun snow chrysanthemum by ethanol extraction process has significant tyrosinase inhibition effect, and the developed Kunlun snow chrysanthemum petal mask has significant whitening effect[10] The flavonoids of Kunlun snow chrysanthemum mainly include okanin, isookanin,Flavanoside, mariposide, et alWangyinghao et al found that purslane flavonoid extract can replace enzyme as a substrate substitute for tyrosinase to inhibit melanin production[11]The flavonoids extracted by liuxiaoxin from sanbaicao extract have the ability to inhibit the proliferation of melanoma cells and inhibit the activity of intracellular tyrosinase. The extract added to skin care cream has good whitening effect after human test[12]In addition, flavonoid extract from chrysanthemum petal of Great Britain and flavonoid extract from Swertia sinensis fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum had significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase[13,14]。
2.2 antioxidant effect
Antioxidant refers to the abbreviation of antioxidant free radicals. The mechanism of action can directly or indirectly interact with free radicals, consume free radicals or intermediates, and also improve the activity of antioxidant enzymes and reduce lipid metabolites to achieve antioxidant effect. [15,16]Studies have shown that human diseases, cancer, skin aging and sensitivity are strongly related to oxidative stress. At present, the antioxidant evaluation methods of cosmetics are mainly summarized as scavenging free radical ability, enhancing antioxidant enzyme activity and reducing ROS level. In vitro antioxidant methods mainly include free radical scavenging capacity test, including oxygen radical scavenging (ORAC method), DPPH radical scavenging (DPPH method), total antioxidant capacity test (ABTS method), etc. cell method mainly induces cells to produce ROS model by UV, ozone, etc., and evaluates the antioxidant effect by detecting cell morphology, survival rate, ROS, antioxidant enzyme activity, etc[17,18]At the same time, it can also be evaluated by detecting relevant indicators after animal modeling. Studies have shown that total polyphenols have good antioxidant activity due to the presence of several phenolic hydroxyl groups[19]。
Fuqinxuan[20]The brown pigment extracted from hazelnut shell was used as a positive control to scavenge · oh and ABTS free radicals as well as Fe with ascorbic acid (VC)3+FRAP test showed that the reduction ability of hazelnut shell brown pigment was concentration dependent with free radical scavenging rate. . Lixueling[21]. Fuqun et al[22]The study found that flavonoids were extracted from Rosa davurica fruits by negative pressure ultrasonic method and response surface analysis experimental design, and the extraction rate was (3.342 ± 0.027) mg / g, which was 15.2% higher than that of atmospheric pressure ultrasonic method2-·The results of scavenging ability test showed that the free radical scavenging ability of the flavonoids extracted from Rosa spinosa was higher than that of vitamin C at the same concentration, and its scavenging rate was IC50. Bao Qilin et al[23]The Osmanthus fragrans flavonoid extract was subcutaneously injected with D-galactose at the back of the neck of mice to establish the antioxidant model, and the DPPH ·, ABTS were scavenged in vitro+The antioxidant activity of Osmanthus fragrans flavonoids was evaluated by the ability test. The results showed that the extraction of Osmanthus fragrans flavonoids could effectively increase the superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH PX), glutathione (GSH) in the liver and kidney of mice, reduce the content of malondialdehyde (MDA) in serum, liver and kidney homogenates, and scavenge free radicals DPPH ·, ABTS+·.
In addition, flavonoid extracts from Flammulina velutipes, chrysanthemum, Kunlun snow chrysanthemum, blueberry, Apocynum venetum, peony flower, loquat leaf, white clover, quinoa bran, Apium lappa, Houttuynia cordata, Ginkgo biloba leaf were found to have good antioxidant activity, and the antioxidant activity of Apium lappa was close to that of vitamin C.The antioxidant activity of Apium lappa was similar to that of vitamin C.The antioxidant activity of vitamin C was also found to be higher than that of vitamin C[24,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32,33,34]。
2.3 anti inflammatory effect
Inflammatory reaction is a physiological reaction of the body to external stimuli. When the inflammatory reaction caused by skin allergy and acne has exceeded the scope of immune response, the inflammatory reaction at this time will cause damage to the tissue, and the skin will show red, swollen, painful, or even purulent state[35]Macrophages, as one of the important immune cells in the body, have the functions of inflammation regulation, phagocytosis, antigen presentation, immune defense and so on. The two polarization models of macrophages, M1 and M2, function to secrete a large number of pro-inflammatory factors to play a pro-inflammatory role and secrete anti-inflammatory factors to play an anti-inflammatory role, respectively[36]At present, RAW264.7 macrophages induced by LPS are used as a common inflammatory model, and the anti-inflammatory efficacy is evaluated through the intervention of the test substance and the content test of the pro-inflammatory cytokines TNF-a, il-1p, IL-6 secreted by macrophages[37]. As a safe, non-toxic and effective raw material, plant extracts have been widely studied and concerned in recent years.
Lujun[31]. According to the LPS induced macrophage RAW264.7 activation inflammation model and luciferase reporter gene detection, the results showed that the flavonoid extract of duckweed effectively inhibited the transcriptional activation of NF KB induced by LPS in RAW264.7 cells. The results of Western blot and RT qPCR showed that the flavonoid extract of duckweed produced anti-inflammatory effect by down regulating the production of il-lp, IL-6, TNF amrna and protein expression. G ¨ ulnur Toker[38]They found that kaempferol-3,7-o--dirhamnoside (1) and quercetin-3,7-o--dirhamnoside (2) from Tilia amurensis leaves showed significant anti-inflammatory activity in the mouse model of hind paw swelling induced by benzoquinone at a dose of 50 mg/kg.
2.4 anti allergic effect
At present, according to the general medical interpretation, since sensitive skin has no objective basis for skin lesions and diseases, it is believed that skin sensitivity is not a skin disease, but a dry, tight, reddish or even slightly itchy and tingling sensation of skin induced by external environment and other factors. Its causes are the established state of skin structure and sensory nerves. The main causes affecting skin sensitivity include: (1) skin barrier function, for example, people with poor skin barrier function and thin stratum corneum are more likely to develop skin sensitivity. (2) In recent years, studies have shown that skin sensitivity is associated with abnormal central nervous function, peripheral nerve function and enhanced cutaneous nerve response. (3) Inflammatory reaction: due to the poor barrier function of sensitive skin, it is more vulnerable to skin inflammation caused by external stimuli and allergy[39,40]At present, the anti allergic ingredients of plant extracts commonly used in cosmetics include tea polyphenols, blue cigarette oil, trans-4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol, peony phenolic glycoside, quercetin, etc. The evaluation methods of its anti allergic efficacy include barrier function repair, inhibition of inflammation, nerve sedation and other related experiments[41]。
Studies have shown that more and more Plant Flavonoid extracts have been found to have high anti allergic activity. [24]Rutin, quercetin, Murraya flavonoids JA and JB, ginsenoside SA and Sb were extracted from ginseng. The six flavonoid monomers were non-toxic to RBL-2H3 cells at the concentration of 0-100 μ mol / L, and could effectively inhibit β - hex released by activated cells. The inhibition rates of β - Hex of ginseng flavonoids SA and Sb were 68.83% and 65.40% at the concentration of 25 μ mol / L. through single factor experiment, the purity of ginseng flavonoids SA and Sb was 98.2% and 96.7% after three times of reflux extraction with methanol and high-speed countercurrent chromatography with AB-8 macroporous adsorption resin.
2.5 bacteriostatic effect
Microbial contamination in cosmetics can lead to the decomposition of effective ingredients in cosmetics, and the metabolites of microorganisms can lead to human skin allergy, infection and other safety problems. Therefore, cosmetics are added with preservative ingredients to effectively prevent microbial contamination in cosmetics, but excessive use of preservatives leads to potential safety hazards in skin[42]Therefore, cosmetics without preservatives are more and more popular among consumers. By adding natural and effective plant extracts with bacteriostatic effect, the antiseptic effect is achieved, and the long-term use of human body is safer[43,44]According to the safety technical specifications for cosmetics (2015 version), common microbial tests include: Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger.
Qiuyatie et al[45]Sixteen flavonoids were isolated and purified from the stems and branches of red bean tree. Among them, compounds 5,7-Dihydroxy-4 '- methoxy isoflavone-7-o - β - D-glucoside, isoflavone-7-o - β - D-glucoside, showed moderate inhibitory effects on the mycelial growth of Fusarium graminearum, Fusarium oxysporum watermelon and Fusarium solani. Liutianjing[34]The results showed that the flavonoids extracted by alcohol from Kunlun snow chrysanthemum had spectral antibacterial activity, with the minimum effective concentration of 1.563% for three kinds of bacteria and 6.250% for two kinds of fungi.
Its bacteriostatic effect is Pseudomonas aeruginosa > Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus > Aspergillus niger > Candida albicans. The use of preservatives can be reduced by adding its extract to the mask. Liuxiaoxin[12]The inhibition experiments of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were carried out on the ethyl acetate extract of sanbaicao. The results showed that the antibacterial effect was good, and the antibacterial circle was 9.25 mm and 11.04 mm, respectively, which was slightly weaker than that of the commonly used preservative germall plus, and the antibacterial circle was 13.58 mm and 15.92 mm, respectively. The effective components were qualitatively analyzed by thin-layer chromatography and color reaction, and further analyzed by HPLC, UV and MS as quercetin and rutin. Chen Jun[31]It was found that the MIC of the extract of Apium lappa against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus subtilis was less than 12.5 mg / ml, and the MIC of the extract against Streptococcus haemolyticus B was 50 mg / ml. According to uplc-ms/ms analysis, its active components are flavonoids, mainly luteolin, apigenin and p-coumaric acid, and the antibacterial effect is concentration dependent.
As one of the branches of polyphenols, flavonoids are a class of multi-purpose natural compounds with significant biological activities. In recent years, with the rapid development of cosmetics, from the initial moisturizing, cleaning and other basic functions, people's demand for cosmetics is no longer limited to this, but for cosmetics with more functions, such as whitening, soothing, acne removing, anti allergy, anti-aging and so on. Therefore, there is an increasing demand for effective and safe functional raw materials. As natural cosmetic raw materials, plant extracts show low toxicity and good biological activity. Therefore, their application in skin care products will become a popular trend[46,47]This paper reviews the research on the bioactivity of plant flavone extracts and its application in cosmetics in recent years. The results showed that the plant flavonoid extract had good antioxidant, whitening, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti allergic and other effects, and had great potential in the application of efficacy cosmetics.
Copyright notice: the article is from Guangdong chemical 2020, 47 (09), 105-107
