Pick To:ginsengPanax ginsengAs one of the most widely used cosmetic raw materials, modern pharmacological research shows that its main chemical component ginsenoside shows anti-aging, sun protection, whitening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, hair fixation, hair loss prevention and other skin care and hair care effects in vivo and in vitro, and the rare ginsenosides produced by ginseng processing will strengthen the above effects. This paper systematically reviewed the research progress of ginseng extract and ginsenosides in skin care and hair care in recent years, providing a scientific basis for the further development and application of ginseng extract and ginsenosides as new skin care products.
ginsengPanax ginseng C. A. Mey. It is a Panax genus plant of Araliaceae and has been known as the "king of herbs" since ancient times. According to the Shennong materia medica classic, "ginseng is sweet and slightly cold in taste. It mainly supplements the five internal organs, calms the spirit, calms the soul, stops palpitations, eliminates evil Qi, brightens the eyes, increases happiness and intelligence, takes it for a long time, lightens the body and prolongs life". Ginseng and its prescriptions have cosmetic effects according to the "Golden Prescriptions" and "Shengji Zonglu"[1]Modern research has proved that ginseng has the functions of regulating nervous system, improving cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases, regulating immunity, anti-tumor, hypoglycemic and beauty care[2]According to the market of plant raw materials used in skin care at home and abroad, ginseng raw materials, with its unique effect and safety in beauty and skin care, are deeply loved by the majority of consumers. At present, ginseng raw materials have become one of the most widely used plant raw materials for skin care products, providing ideas for opening up the new application and value of ginseng functional substances in skin care products.
.
1 Main skin care active ingredients from different parts of ginseng
Ginsenosides, the main effective substance of ginseng, as triterpenoid saponins, account for3%～6%According to the different structures of saponins, they can be divided into dammarane type tetracyclic triterpenoid saponins and oleanane type pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins. 1、2According to the different substituents of the parent nucleus, ginsenosides that play a role in skin care are summarized in table1、2In addition, there are differences in the types of saponins in different parts of ginseng, and their skin care efficacy also varies according to the types of saponins. See table for the saponins in different parts of ginseng3。
Ginseng is a traditional beauty and skin care product in China, and its beauty and skin care effect has been recognized by people. So far, ginseng is also widely used as a cosmetic raw material. Ginsenosides and other active substances in various parts of ginseng make different parts of ginseng have certain beauty and skin care effects.
2.1 Anti aging effect
Skin aging is the result of the joint action of various factors, which are mainly divided into2; The second is exogenous aging, which is mainly affected by external environmental factors such as ultraviolet radiation, smoking, gravity, and chemicals, of which more than80%The aging of facial skin tissue is due to ultraviolet radiation, so it is also known as photoaging. The resulting skin aging is characterized by skin discoloration, dark complexion, rough relaxation, deep wrinkles, and loss of skin elasticity[21-22]。
It was found that ginseng extract[23]And ginsenosidesRd[24]Can inhibit matrix metalloproteinases induced by UVB（matrix metalloproteinase，MMP）-1andMMP-13It can resist light aging; Zhuliping et al[25]The clinical long-term and short-term effects showed that the anti-aging mask added with ginseng extract couldActivate skin cells, replenish skin moisture, enhance skin elasticity, and reduce skin moisture loss. [26]Discovery of ginseng50%The half inhibitory concentration of antioxidant effect of ethanol extract（half maximal inhibitory concentration，IC50）The value is6.86 g/LGinseng water extract can effectively improve superoxide dismutase in mouse heart and brain tissue（superoxide dismutase，SOD）[27]Ginseng polysaccharide has significant scavenging effect1,1-Diphenyl-2-Trinitrophenylhydrazine[1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical2,2-diphenyl-1- (2,4,6-trinitrophe-nyl) hydrazyl，DPPH]Effects of free radicals[28]。
Chengjunlin[29]It was found that total saponins from ginseng stems and leaves could improve the whole blood of aging miceCatalase（catalase，CAT）And glutathione peroxidase（glutathione peroxidase，GSH-Px）And in skin tissueSODVitality, reduce skin tissueMedium malondialdehyde（malondialdehyde，MDA）Content.Hongetc.[30]ResearchersGinseng stem and leaf saponins can removeDPPHand2,2'-Diazonium-two（3-ethyl-Benzothiazole-6-Sulfonic acid) diammonium salt[2,2'-azinobis-（3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonate），ABTS]Free radicals, alleviatingUVBInduced epidermal thickening and barrier function impairment and inhibitionUVBInducedMMP-2、MMP-3、MMP-13Expression of; Ginseng extract also scavenges excess free radicals[31], promotingIType I collagen synthesis[32]. Korean scholars[33-34]According to fibroblast experiments, ginsenosides from ginseng stems and leaves can reduce reactive oxygen species（reactiveoxygen species，ROS）GSHThe consumption of UV-B（ultraviolet A，UVA）InducedMMP-2andMMP-9Activity of, promotingIType I collagen synthesis.Shinetc.[35]Human experiments have proved that ginsenosides from ginseng stems and leaves have good anti-aging properties. Marin et al[36]According to the aging mouse model, ginseng flower oligosaccharides can improveSOD，GSH-PxandCATVitality, reducedMDAEffect of content. Ginseng fruit polysaccharide can significantly reduce the serum of aged ratsMDAContent and brain and liver tissues（lipofuscin，LF）Content, significantly increased serumSOD、CAT、GSH-PXActivity and skin hydroxyproline（hydroxyproline，HYP）Content[37]. Mi Heming et al[38]Apply ginseng anti wrinkle cream to mice37Days later, in the skinHYPIt can increase the content of collagen in the skin.Kimetc.[39]The ginseng leaves studied contained high-purity ginsenosidesRb3And ginsenosidesRb2Of the extract, by means of a pair of24The periorbital region was used by volunteers8Weeks later, the results proved that the use of ginseng leaves（Panax ginseng leaf，PGLE）The emulsion can reduce the deep groove depth in the target area.
2.2 Whitening effect
Tyrosinase（tyrosinase）Is a key target of melanin biosynthesis in vivo[40], reduce the production of melanin particles by inhibiting tyrosinase activity to achieve whitening effect[41]Studies have shown that ginseng extract can exhibit whitening efficacy by inhibiting tyrosinase[42-43]; Li Jianming et al[44]The formula composed of arbutin, polysaccharide and ginsenoside in ginseng hairy root extract has good whitening effect.
Parketc.[45]research70%Antioxidant activity and whitening effect of ethanol on ginseng bud, leaf and root extracts. It was found that the mass fractions of total polyphenols and total flavonoids in ginseng leaf extraction were4.83、6.04 mg/g. in1.0 mg/mLAt the mass concentration, the inhibitory activities of ginseng root and leaf extracts on tyrosinase were0.41%and0.59%. zhangzhiping et al[46]Through the human patch whitening test, it was found that the emulsion containing ginseng fruit extract had the effect of reducing the content of melanin.
Arbutin in ginseng inhibits melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity[47]. high dose ginsenosidesRb1SuppressableB16Proliferation of melanocytes[48]Ginsenosides can inhibit the expression of nitric oxide synthase in cultured melanocytes[49]。10～80 g/mLGinsenosides ofRg1Achieve whitening effect by reducing melanin synthesis[50]. ginsenosidesRg3For the signaling molecules regulating melanin productionAktAnd extracellular signal regulated kinase to reduce melanin content and inhibit tyrosinase activity, which is a safe and effective skin whitening agent[39,51]。
2.3 Anti wrinkle effect
Lizian et al[52]Using ginseng anti-aging series products to45The clinical efficacy test was carried out in healthy subjects, and the results showed that the ginseng anti-aging series of products can significantly improve the water content of the skin stratum corneum and reduce the percutaneous water loss（trans epidermal water loss, TEWL）Value, reducing facial wrinkles. The water extract and70%The ethanol extract has obvious antioxidant and anti wrinkle effects and can be used as a cosmetic food raw material to improve skin wrinkles[53]Ginseng can activate skin metabolism, reduce keratinization, moisturize and soften skin, and reduce wrinkles[54]。
2.4 anti-inflammatory effect
Ginseng is one of the most widely used alternative drugs for the treatment of inflammation. In recent years, studies have found that ginsenosides show a variety of pharmacological effects in the treatment of inflammatory related diseases. Due to the different chemical structures, each ginsenoside has different pharmacological effects[55]. research shows that[56-57]The ether soluble components of fresh ginseng roots, ginseng extracts and ginsenosides have good anti-inflammatory activities. GinsenosidesGF2P-tetradecanoyl phorbol acetate（TPA）The beneficial effects of induced skin inflammation in mice contribute to the treatment of inflammatory related skin diseases[58], Xu Wen et al[59]It was proved by mouse contact dermatitis model that ginsenosidesRh2Effective inhibition（COX）-2、Interleukin（interleukin，IL）-1β、IL-4、TNF-αandIFN-γOfmRNAExpression levels, showing anti-inflammatory and therapeutic activities for allergic dermatitis. The results of pharmacological activity study showed that ginsenosidesRg5It can improve skin inflammatory diseases, such as contact dermatitis or psoriasis[60]。Ahnetc.[61]Evaluated with human keratinocytes and macrophages, respectively, and concluded thatRg5/Rk1Anti atopic dermatitis in vitroADThe role of.ig、ipGinsenosidesRg5, which were found to effectively inhibit the production of immunoglobulin fromE（IgE）Passive cutaneous anaphylaxis induced by antigen complexes（PCA）, in addition, their effects on abnormal glycan glycoproteins（tumor abnormal protein，TAP）Induced otodermatitis in mice has anti-inflammatory effects[62]。
2.5 Hair care
Due to social environment, diet, work pressure and other factors, the number of people with hair graying is increasing[63]Polysaccharides extracted from ginseng can prevent hair loss caused by UV stimulation[64]Ginseng extract can prevent hair loss and white hair[65]; Xiang Zhaorui et al[66]It was found that ginseng formula can alleviate hair loss and promote hair growth. Ginseng can inhibit dandruff[67]Shengmaiyin, an ancient prescription whose main drug is ginseng[68-69]It has a significant effect on the treatment of alopecia of Qi and blood deficiency type[70]. 10000Yuhua et al[71]For shampoo containing ginseng active substancesThe content of ginseng extract in shampoo was15%The best effect is to soften hair.Kimetc.[72]It was found that the mass fraction of ginsenosides was3%It can enhance the tensile strength and elongation of hair and maintain the elasticity of hair[73-74]. liuziwen et al[75]Ginseng made from ginseng extractEKetone cream, applied on the patient's head, can inhibit the growth of dandruff.
Modern pharmacological studies have found that ginseng has pharmacological activities in beauty and skin care. Ginseng contains a rich variety of saponins. The same saponin often has different pharmacological effects, and different kinds of saponins may also have the same efficacy. Therefore, ginseng has a wide range of pharmacological effects, and its efficacy in whitening and skin care is widely developed.
3.1 Skin care mechanism of ginseng extract
With the gradual deepening of the research on the skin care efficacy of ginseng, as one of the most popular raw materials of natural cosmetics, the demand for ginseng and ginseng extract in the international and domestic markets has increased significantly. Ginseng extract has antioxidant, whitening and sunscreen effects. The skin care mechanism of ginseng extract is shown in table4。
3.2 Mechanism of ginsenosides in skin care
At present, more than 100 ginsenosides have been isolated and identified, and the main Ginsenosides with high content are abundant. Compared with ginseng extract, the main ginsenosides have more comprehensive skin care effects, as shown in table5The main ginsenosides have anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, sunscreen, whitening, collagen synthesis and other skin care effects, includingGinsenoside Rb1, ginsenoside RB3, ginsenoside Rd, ginsenoside Re, ginsenoside F1, Ginsenoside Rg1。
3.3 Rare ginsenosides（element）Mechanism of skin care
Rare ginsenosides are mainly obtained from the metabolism of major ginsenosides in animals, and their biological activities are generally higher than those of major ginsenosides, mainly includingGinsenoside Rg3, ginsenoside Rh2, ginsenoside compound K, ginsenoside MX, etcThe skin care efficacy and mechanism of rare ginsenosides are shown in table6Shown in.
4 discuss
In conclusion, studies have proved that ginsenosides are the main effective substances in ginseng skin care products[111-112]. Jin Guixin et al[113]The results of qualitative identification of self-made ginseng whitening cream by mass spectrometry showed that the product contained ginsenosidesRb2, ginsenosidesRc、GinsenosidesRd、GinsenosidesRe、GinsenosidesRg1、GinsenosidesRg2、GinsenosidesRh1And Panax notoginseng saponinsR2. song Changchun et al[114]In addition to the special flavor from ginseng volatile oil, ginseng dew also contains saponins, phytosterols, flavonoids and other components. Liguohua et al[115].
According to online sales platform search statistics, ginseng extract and saponins are widely used in skin care and cosmetics industry in cosmetics sold in China. There are hundreds of brands of skin care products with ginseng as the main functional ingredient, mainly in South Korea.200. The main extracts added in these products are derived from ginseng extracts and saponins, while Korean ginseng cosmetics are mainly red ginseng or biotransformation
Ginseng extract is the main raw material. Most of the ginseng extract and ginsenoside industries are concentrated in China. 2024In, the scale of the world ginsenoside market will increase from2019Years9.5US $billion to9.7Billion dollars. Therefore, skin care and hair care products with ginseng extract and ginsenoside as raw materials will have huge development prospects and broad markets.
Although ginseng extract and saponins have been widely studied in skin care, and have proved to have significant anti-aging, whitening, anti wrinkle and other effects in skin care, especially the research of some monomeric ginseng and rare saponins has clarified the mechanism of anti-aging and anti wrinkle effects of anti-aging whitening agents at the molecular level, and has been used as natural plant raw materials of cosmetics in skin care products. However, according to the analysis of ginseng skin care products available in the market, the ginseng extract and the ginsenoside composition and functional components with significant efficacy and clear mechanism are still unclear, and there are few quality evaluation or control detection methods, such as Korean snow flower show Ginseng Cream, Xiangyi herbal Yuanqi ginseng high-energy multi-effect essence, baileying skin activating and smoothing essence, DabaoSODHoneyAHC B5Ampoule hyaluronic acid mask II, etc. In addition, ginseng monomers and rare saponins with clear efficacy and mechanism of action have not been used as main raw materials in skin care products. Clinical research on skin care products is rare, and the stems, leaves, flowers, fruits, extracts and saponins of ginseng aerial parts have not been thoroughly developed and utilized. .
References (omitted)
Come Source:Lixiaomin, Gao Qingqing, zhaoyuqingResearch progress of ginseng extract and saponins in skin care and hair care [J] . Chinese herbal medicine, 2021, 52 (16): 5078- 5088